— tapioca world tour

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June, 2009 Monthly archive

My big excursion today has been walking five blocks to buy cat food. I have been trying to convert Flip HD files from MP4 from MOV (note: annoying) for FCP 5.1, but it’s taking forever with Compressor. There’s a new houseguest now, J., a German girl who was working here in Lima for 10 months and recently has been traveling to Bagua, to the heart of the indigenous protests, as part of research she’s doing for her thesis. We’re both holed up on the top floor with our stupid laptops — she’s trying to make contacts for more interviews, I’m waiting patiently for Compressor to compress. Neither of us want to go home, although that fate is looming with its teeth bared, an angry dog.

Meanwhile, I just ate another extra large bag of M&M’s.

Scenes to remember later:

  1. Peeing on the side of a snake-infested hill in San Ramón at night under a tree while the guys waited below for the roadblock to clear; a boy walked past and pretended not to notice me. Above, there were more stars than I’ve ever seen in my life.
  2. Same place, in the car: watching M.’s cigarette ash fall lightly whenever he quietly flicked it against the side of the Suzuki. Something about that scene was very zen. His fingers, the darkness, the stillness, the burning embers. I was sad, even as it was happening, that I would never see it again.
  3. Bumping along a dirt road at night in the jungle of Pangoa with my head out the window, remembering a similar night in the back of a pickup in Thailand, laughing with a bunch of stateless Burmese kids. Sometimes it feels amazing to be in the middle of nowhere. You kind of want the earth to just swallow you up.
  4. Making espresso every morning in P.’s apartment, with thick cream and cinnamon. Cleaning the kitchen afterward. Writing with Abhi every night until 3a, with smoke dying in the fireplace and an orange smog overtaking the city outside. “Just like hooooooney,” he sings. Makes me laugh so hard I cry. I appreciate this terribly.
  5. Buying tampons with Peter. Unsolicited uterus jokes. It’s a good friend who will postpone breakfast to scavenge around a jungle town in search of tampons for you. Seriously, a good good friend.
  6. Watching M. sleep. With the tv blaring. Watching P. sleep, snoring. With the tv blaring.
  7. Bonding with the man in the hardware store. Letting the woman at the sunglasses store select a pair she thought looked nice. Bonding with the man in line for Terminator when I went to the movies alone for a second time. Walking back along the water at midnight, watching the waves roll in like the heartbeat of a calm divinity; noticing the moon, absolutely huge, and the neon cross glowing on the other side of the sea. Walking away from the cross. Walking past the lighthouse. Walking past the tennis courts. Walking past the solitary men with their dogs. Walking past the women in uniforms, cleaning the streets.
  8. Eating P.’s Bavarian weisswurst while he and N. watch Lost.
  9. Discussing politics with K. as we played pool in a billiard place full of men. The long walk home; Calle Berlin was all echoes and shadows.

:: none comes at first, and little comes at all – #difranco



P1080150, originally uploaded by pazonada.

I slept all day; it felt like sailing
on seas as thick as honey; woke up cloudy; woke up
heavy

as if I’d carried
a sack back from the black
filled with sunshine, sedated memories and
melted M&Ms.

I checked out the window; the sea was still there
waiting for me to notice its new color:
a muted green. Things are never as they seem.
How have you been?
I’ve changed, it said, while you were sinking
in a dream.

I didn’t sink; I swam, I leaped,
and shook the drops off on the long road back.
Each fell flatly with a silent scream.

I have decided to switch up my blog titles this week; they will vacillate between Jawbreaker and Ani lyrics now. (When in doubt, we always return to the music of the 90s. Which is how you know you’re in your thirties.)

I’m back in Lima, after a full day’s driving back through the mountains in a race to beat the midnight roadblock by striking mine workers at La Oroya. The view was gorgeous, por supuesto. We listened to a lot of German hardcore punk in the Suzuki and ate some excellent trout and panchamancha and chamomile tea with mint and fresh flowers. And cookies. And Inca Kola. I fell asleep in contorted positions and looked out at the bluest water I have ever seen, high high up in the Andes.

Meanwhile, a subtle ache has been begun to form in my gut. I suspect it will stay there until I fly back to Boston on Saturday, and will probably become entrenched for a few months at least. I’ve been trying to write down specific moments in correlation with my photographic memory so I can look back on Peru later and have images to recall. I did this in England, even on this blog, and it helps to remember that the experience actually happened. It is extremely important to me to remember where I have been. If you haven’t already noticed. I’ll write up something later. Right now things are a little blurry.

:: and I wasn’t joking when I said goodbye – #difranco



M. made a friend, originally uploaded by pazonada.



Lunch in la selva, originally uploaded by pazonada.